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London Fashion Week has always been characterised by a more experimental, subversive approach to design than its international counterparts. From Alexander McQueen’s landmark VOSS show 20 years ago, to the charming ragtag gangs of Art School, Charles Jeffrey and Rottingdean Bazaar today, there’s always a healthy dose of theatrics and a heap of irony for good measure.
Born in Buffalo and Trained in London, Edwin Mohney Sources the Fabric for His Radical Ball Gowns at KmartVogue, February 16, 2019
Last night, students of London’s Central Saint Martins showed their graduate collection on the university runway, which has played host to some of the industry’s most creative minds. (The list of alumnae reads like a Who’s Who of British fashion: John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Phoebe Philo, to name a few.) Last year, American designer Edwin Mohney was among those who presented at CSM. His highly imaginative designs ended up being something of a viral sensation—made from shrunken rubber Donald Trump masks, the shoes in particular were a runaway hit. Though his blowup paddling-pool headpieces were easily a close second.
Highly-structured armour-like creations are the subject of an 11 metres high and 120 meters wide photographic installation by Nick Knight on the façade of the Knightsbridge estate in Central London.
Entitled The Knights of Knightsbridge, the installation features 18 striking fashion images, depicting creations from fashion designers including, Gareth Pugh, Rick Owens, Iris van Herpen, Yohji Yamamoto, Moncler, Maison Margiela, alongside an important archival piece from Dior Couture by John Galliano.
Mimma Viglezio is joined by Dino Bonacic, Finn Mactaggart, Edwin Mohney and Nathalie Khan to discuss the Dior Men’s S/S 19 show.
Edwin Mohney’s debut collection featured an inflatable swimming pool top, rubber chicken hats, and Trump mask stilettos
Year in, year out, the Central Saint Martins MA show is an open window into the revered fashion school and its creative comings and goings. Thanks to the school’s collection of amazing alumni – Alexander McQueen, Phoebe Philo, and Riccardo Tisci among them – the expectations are undeniably high, but that doesn’t stop the students from consistently delivering year after year.
Last year the Parsons MFA Fashion Design and Society program withdrew from the Business of Fashion’s Global School Fashion Rankings. They sited conflicts of interest, namely its combative commodification of education, BoF’s dubious initiation of their own online courses, and the ranking’s lack of geopolitical and socioeconomic variables. And yet ranking is perfectly reasonable in a world where universities are increasingly public-relations businesses.
London’s Central Saint Martins, arguably the world’s top fashion university, consistently produces impressive MA showcases. This year, two graduate collections in particular sparked intense interest: Liam Johnson and Edwin Mohney. While it’s an easy, if not lazy, task to buttress the already elite-ranked institution, I was gripped by the two designer’s distinctive approaches in reimagining the application of dress through reduction and the found object. They were also, maybe for those reasons, the bookends of the graduate runway.
London Fashion Week, which wraps up today, is a bi-annual highlight in the fashion festival circuit.
It is the place where both established and up-and-coming designers will showcase their latest cutting-edge creations on the catwalk: designs that could influence this year’s high street fashions or simply prompt confused glances and stares.
And this year has been no exception.
Fashion week is nothing if not eccentric. This season, it was Central Saint Martins MA fashion design graduate Edwin Mohney who got the style set talking with his lilo skirts, condom dresses and ‘Trumpettos‘ – rubber stilettos designed to look like the President of the United States.
The weird and wonderful are on display at this week’s fashionista festival, with designers taking things way too far.
FOR every Burberry and Mulberry at London Fashion Week, there’s a designer who takes wacky outfits to a whole new level.
Think models dressed as condoms and outfits made out of inflatable swimming pools.
Central Saint Martins Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
i-D, June 2, 2017
To the small town kids looking to find their place in the world, let designer and Central Saint Martins student Edwin Mohney remind you of the possibilities that await in London.